Penang By Buruhanudeen

Penang

It was a fortnight since I left Chennai and now stranded on this island. Finally, the time of truth came when news broke that we would be free from isolation at the break of light the following day. I happily curled up under my blanket and fell asleep on the quiet chilly night. After going through a week of rain and shine, mosquitoes and leeches, hunger and anger, finally I left the island to ‘Swettenham Pier’. As the vessel neared the shores, for the first time I watched in close view the so-called ‘tongkang’- lighters whose words had rung in my ears countless number of times. Standing beside me, watching the lighter, Uncle Cook proudly pointed to his humble home beneath the goods laden deck. The lighters were totally different from what I had imagined them to be. I thought they would resemble the ‘Shikaras’-houseboats on Dal Lake, Kashmir which I had seen in books. Actually, the lighter looked more like the fishing boats along the coast of the sea close to my village.

My heart leaped with joy as I disembarked and walked through a large crowd which had gathered to welcome their loved ones. I knew among them would be my uncle, aunty and their children waiting eagerly to see me after days of long silence. As I dragged my skeleton body in search of my loved ones, I bumped into one of the villagers whom I knew well. He informed me that an uncle of mine was there to receive me and helped to trace him. A tall, curly haired man was then introduced to me as the younger brother of my mother. He was uncle Kassim, whom I had heard about a lot but seeing for the first time. I gave a parting hug to Uncle Cook for his hospitality. Uncle Kassim too thanked him and quickly whisked me to a waiting trishaw. I sat alone on the trishaw with my luggage while uncle Kassim cycled in front. It was a short journey but full of music to the ears and feast to the eyes. For the first time, I saw the Chinese and the Malays and also heard the ‘strange’ languages they talked.

As the trishaw moved at a slow leisurely pace, I saw a double-decker bus zooming past me. It’s worth knowing about the transport system in Penang in the old golden days. What I am telling is not a fairy tale but Penang had steam trams, horse trams, electric trams and trolleybuses apart from trishaws and buses. It also had reconditioned double-decker buses from London. The trishaws were the most common mode of transport and it is still very much alive today. The early Penang planners were mindful of the fact that efficient transport for people and goods was essential for developing the economy. But today’s planners had forgotten the role transport plays in the development of the state, especially tourism. This is one of the reasons for the deteriorating tourist arrivals to this island and also for the pearl to lose its glitter.